Send any comments to Les Skinner (figjam62 at gmail dot com)
Dennis Cowling, Mark Darter, Gunther Schmitz, Les Skinner
Overall: Friday 5th to Thursday 25th November 2004
Walking: Sunday 7th to Tuesday 23rd November 2004
The AAWT joins Walhalla (Victoria) to Canberra (ACT) in Australia. At approx 660km overall, we planned to do this in thirds for logistical and work commitment reasons. The first third of 220km from Walhalla to Mt Hotham is arguably the more difficult terrain wise. We planned to complete the walk by finishing with an extra 30km section from Mt Hotham to Harrietville, to take in the Razorback, Mt Feathertop, and Bungalow Spur. Overall, around 250km in about 17 days, an average of about 15km per day.
We departed Adelaide, South Australia approx 4.00pm on the Friday, with plans to get a good deal of the travelling done by 9.00pm ish, making it to a caravan park at Swan Hill, Victoria. Our party of 4 travelled in 2 vehicles, to enable a car shuttle to be set up to facilitate our return travel.
Departing Swan Hill around 8.30am, we proceeded to Benalla, where we had arranged for a vehicle to be left at a car dealership. The 4 of us then headed down the Mansfield / Jamieson Road for the trip through the mountains, getting a taste of some of the small track sections of the AAWT where we would walk in the days to come. At Jamieson, we called into the local Police Station to check on road conditions and leave our trip plan with him, advising him he didn't have to take any action, we had an Adelaide contact that would phone him if we didn't check in at a pre arranged time.
Having a 4WD for the mountains trip was great, as the roads were a little damp, and we hoped that the return shuttle with the Magna wagon left at Benalla would be a little drier. Our first minor mistake was underestimating the time required to get across to Walhalla, incorporating a food drop at Mt Skene Road (half way mark), and a smaller drop at Mt St Gwinear (to make the 2 day climb onto the Baw Baw Plateau a little easier on us). Allow a whole day for this drive with similar stops. We had planned to get to Walhalla and walk about 5km or so out and camp that night. In the end it was a bit of a blessing we didn't (leeches).
We did an 8 day food drop at the Mt Skene Road, off the western side of the road near a clearing that would make a great campsite (GR462561). We used 3 plastic drums that where completely sealed with screw top lids to reduce risk of animal interference over this longer period. A little further south along the road, at a track junction (GR483498), we were a bit dismayed to find someone's used food drop, with several water drums and rubbish scattered about. We hoped that we might find this cleared up when we walked through in about 8 days time, but it was still there (and when we drove through picking up our drums Wednesday 24th). One blessing was it wasn't any further scattered, being fairly wind protected and animals didn't seem to be interested in it either. We noticed that the (we assume) several water drums had sheep and cattle dip concentrate labels, so hope they washed them out well before use ! This fact also led us to believe that it may have been a local group dump or country group dump.
Next we set off for the Mt St Gwinear carpark via the Thomson Dam road crossing, making a 4km return walk in to leave a 2 day food drop at the east junction of the Mt St Gwinear alternate track (GR399121). This was done with 3 fruit boxes placed inside garbags, which we (correctly) thought would be OK for a day and a half or so. It was generally drizzling rain while we made this food drop.
We then drove to Walhalla via Rawson, arriving about an hour prior to dusk. As we had to organise the vehicle, get ready to walk etc, we decided to stay at Walhalla for the night and depart the next morning. We had dinner at the Star Hotel (the only place we could get a meal after 8pm) and slept in our sleeping bags on mats at the local picnic shelter (figuring it would do no harm being so late).
Walhalla - Allow time to check out this hidden gem of a town. The old mining town is rife with history and atmosphere, and you'll never forget driving into town for the first time and seeing buildings perched neatly into the steep hillsides. The surrounding valley sides are so steep that the local oval had to be put on a hilltop with the only access via a foot track 700' above the street. Miners in early years took 35' off the top of the hill (with hand tools) until it was big enough to accommodate the oval, which was used for football and cricket matches. Trees were planted around the oval edge, but still many cricket balls were taken for a match to allow for the ones that inevitably went over the boundary! Stringers Creek runs right through town, with many buildings straddling the creek to make use of this normally un-buildable area. Above the town lies the old mining tramway and Long Tunnel Mine.
We readied our gear & clothing and excess gear to remain with the vehicle, and dropped into the local Walhalla General Store (Rhonda & Norm), who had kindly agreed to allow us to leave our southern transport securely locked on their property. Still, it was around 9.00am before we were off, taking John Seisman's 'Walking the Alpine Walking Track' book advice and heading north up the street and onto the tramway via the northern camping ground. Conditions early were overcast, rain looked possible, but by 9.00am it was mainly sunny with a little cloud here and there.
The track from the campground goes up a pedestrian or driveway track from the north eastern corner of the grounds. Contrary to the guide book, the marked trail starts from the bandstand in the centre of town. It was a pleasant walk along the tramline, some 50m or so above the town over this extra distance, passing Long Tunnel mine entrance, many artefacts from this era, and interpretive signs along the way.
After 2-1/2km or so, the town was left behind and we ambled along the tramway, which continues south, then west, then north to Poverty Point (around 10km from Walhalla). Along the track west up to the Thomson River road bridge, the road and a reconstructed tramline are visible from time to time below. From Mormon Town Track northwards to the East Tyers Road (1-1/2 km back from Mt Erica carpark), we encountered quite a population of leeches, which would have made camping quite difficult.
Along the way we crossed the Thomson River over the old steel bridge (circa 1900), meeting a group of 4 Venturers who had walked south (overnight) from Mt Erica carpark, we assume camping at O'Sheas. They warned us about leeches on Firebreak Track, but after walking this section later that afternoon, we decided they would have had the worst of these when they did the old steel bridge to Mormon Town Track section!
A late lunch was had at O'Sheas where it was disappointing to find a couple of rubbish bags left in the toilet block, and some rubbish around the picnic site itself (empty meths bottle, matches in a fire place). It looked like someone tried really hard to get a fire going, without success, hopefully not the Venturers. There was good water available at O'Sheas from the Eastern Tyers River, and again at the top of Firebreak Track just 20 metres east on the Mt Erica Road.
We carried on, camping that night at the Mt Erica carpark, arriving about 5.00pm, and found a nice flat section at the south eastern side of the gravel carpark itself. We obtained good water from a creek crossing the road about 2 or 3 streams back from the carpark, as there was a possibility that the Scout hut (upstream of the last creek) could be a source of nasty contaminants.
Weather - Overall reasonably fine with some cloud cover. About 23km walked today.
We walked from around 8.30am, passing the incredible Mushroom Rocks, Mt Erica, Talbot Peak, and onto the Baw Baw Plateau. We had a break to bag Talbot Peak, and were amused by a White Cheeked Honeyeater that was intent on making a nest from Gunthers' lambs wool pack harness padding, and collecting leg hair from Mark, just above the gaiters. It was literally on us, moving confidently from packs to legs.
We continued to the rock shelter south west of Mt St Gwinear, and as it was too early for lunch, we decided to retrieve our first food cache. We bagged Mt St Gwinear and continued down to the drop, retrieving this and returning by the alternate route, contouring the northern side of the mountain. We had lunch on our return, loaded up our next 6 days food, each or us got an extra garbag to utilize as we needed, and we crushed up the cartons and strapped them on the packs for disposal by burning at that nights' camp.
Arriving about 3.00pm at the hut ruins (GR348156) about 2-1/2km south east of Mt Whitelaw, we made camp. Good water was obtained from the creek just 30 metres or so east, though the sphagnum moss made it awkward to get close to the water without sinking into it (or so Mark and Dennis said). The old fireplace was used to burn the cartons; we felt a little awkward doing this task, normally we don't have fires anywhere we walk, based on simple ecological reasoning and beliefs, but we where simply disposing of this unneeded byproduct of our food drop in the best possible way at the time.
Overall the Baw Baw Plateau section is quite overgrown generally, with many areas of knee high to over the head scrub, making progress slower than anticipated. Legs above the gaiters became cut to the shorts line, so trousers here might be worth considering.
Weather - Overall reasonably fine with some cloud cover. About 16km walked today.
Today we moved into the Thomson River Catchment area, and needed to take heed of camping in the specified sites for obvious reasons. We committed to get to a camping area mentioned in JS's book, located just south east of the Easton Dam (approx GR360256).
Note 1 - This route is correct in Johns' book, the maps show a vastly different route NNE from Park Road, coming back easterly to north of Mt Easton on Divide Road. The actual route goes along Park Road, which becomes Jordan Divide Road, about 2km to 2-1/2km past Easton Dam a 4WD track heads down to the Thomsom River Crossing, then goes up the spur to Mt Easton itself, to rejoin the original route on Divide Road north of Mt Easton.
Note 2 - From the camping area on Thomson Valley Road (GR308217) the track is a little tough. We sort of lost it a bit here regarding exact location of the actual route as compared to the map, but it does vary. It seems to head more NNE from the road, then west to near the 1198 spot height (GR307227). Now it gets hard. There has been clear felling to the NW of the ridge, and in turn there are many big unprotected trees blown down across the track for a couple of k's; it took us a couple of hours to negotiate this 2 k's or so, until the spur dropped off somewhat to Thomson Road. It does come out at least 1/2km west on the Thomson Road, perhaps about GR313240.
Trig Track to Park Road was a nice change and quicker walking. Saw our first snake walking down the spur from the Yarra Thomson Tunnel location. It was a Highland Copperhead, about 2-1/2' long. It headed for some rocks at the tracks edge and we carefully moved around it. It was quite warm that afternoon, and it moved quickly, obviously at optimal operating temperature.
We got to Thomson River log crossing about 4.00pm, finding it quite dilapidated and frankly a little dangerous, especially at the end of a hard day feeling a bit tired. We were tired, Mark went across to see how it was, up around 2' deep, very fast and strong, log was there fine, the wire hand support cable however was fallen down at the last 10' north end, and the landing on the north side was collapsed and subsided into the water. Overall, we decided to leave it until morning when we'd be fresher.
Again, as with anywhere less than say 600 metre elevation; leeches. So back up to the 4WD track (off Jordan Divide Road), we turned left and walked down the track to find a nice camp site (better than the official one on the northern side) and low and behold, looking to the river we spotted a nice big double trunk tree fallen right across the river ! It looked a heck of a lot easier than the established log crossing, so after some deliberation, decided to still camp on the south side and do the crossing in the morning over this alternative spot. Surprisingly, not many leeches here, even though close to the river. Very good water from the river of course.
About 21km walked today.
We started around 8.30am next day, I went across the tree crossing first. A bit ungraceful, and boots just in the water, but easy, much more so than the official crossing just 50 metres or so upstream. We all got across fine and quickly lost the trail to the spur. In the end we bush bashed up until we found it within 100 metres or so. It's a short but 'sharp' 530m climb to Mt Easton from the Thomson River, over about 3-1/2km. Overall markers were reasonably regular and easy to spot (yellow ones, rather than the light blue markers found in some places later along the route), but map and compass skills are required, along with careful reading of JS's book.
Once on the Easton Track and then Casper Creek Track, it was an easy, but steep, walk down to Red Jacket Track, following this north west to our planned camp at Red Jacket, and old mining town. If there ever was a camp site south of Blue Jacket, it is now completely overtaken by Blackberry bushes. Along the way, just north of the old gold workings, we encountered our second snake, this time no mistaking a beautifully marked Tiger snake around 3-1/2' in length. This one was also very 'operational', and after eyeing us for a while, darting off towards the river and through the low ground cover with alarming speed. We wondered if Red Jacket was far enough away for camp . . .
Approaching Red Jacket, we saw a wild cat sitting on the track leading north from the campsite. We must have got in around 3.00pm. Red Jacket is indeed a delightful setting, a wooden bridge across, and a large area to camp right next to the Jordan River. Once housing a trading store and hotel, it was dotted all along the river with shanty's, once a supply hub for other nearby mining areas in the vicinity. The cemetery referred to in the guidebook could not be found. Great water as expected, and trout around 8" - 10" long darting about in the water.
About 12-1/2 km walked today.
The walk to Mt Victor was overall fairly good along the 'position doubtful' section of old 4WD track The Victor Spur Track then took us along quickly. Approaching Walhalla Road the were 2 wild dogs to the north west, on Walhalla road, who really took off when they saw us. We passed the old hut marked on the map, and were soon at the historic monument which is a tree trunk with early road cutters names carved into it.
It was good walking along to Fiddlers Green, where being just before lunch, we downed packs and walked down Fiddlers Green Road to get good water from the big creek running south east from Sunflower Hill. Lunch break was had on returning to the AAWT with that remaining day / night / next mornings' water. We camped near the 1265 spot height (GR460410), arriving fairly late, from memory around 5.30pm.
JS's track notes indicate that the AAWT leaves the 4WD track to the west as it climbs the spur towards the 1339 spot height (not shown on 25k map). We were looking for a camp, so decided to stay on the 4WD track, but found this runs off to the east and north east below the ridge. We didn't rejoin the AAWT until the 1265 spot height, where we were relieved to find a great camp. I have a feeling the AAWT follows the ridge more closely.
About 18km walked today.
The next morning we got moving about 9.00am, walking down the steep and rough 4WD track to the foot track to Black River. A little way down the foot track, I encountered another snake, another Highland Copperhead about 3' in length. This one was cold, not having the inclination to move away immediately, so we get around it with a wide berth as it moved slowly away from us then too.
We got to Black River around 10.00am and, because there are 3 crossings within the first few hundred metres, decided to walk downstream in the river. There appears to be a track either side of the river most of the way, but it is very overgrown and there are lots of leeches. In the river is much better and much quicker, and leeches are not so much trouble. Rocks can be a little slippery in places, but overall no obstacles including deeper pools gave any trouble. The depth at the entry point from the foot track was just under the knees, to give an idea on best depths to wade.
We did try the track along the east side for a couple of hundred metres or so, but it is hard to find, and tough going, I soon found myself back in the water wading along with the current instead, while my companions kept to the track. I could have walked the whole 1-1/2 km in the river in less than an hour, while the track would take maybe a couple of hours. I would imagine that trying to walk Black River upstream would be very much harder work. Did I mention there are LOTS of leeches on the tracks ? The guys de-leeched at the 4WD track crossing.
We had lunch after the last ankle deep crossing to the base of the spur heading north. De-leeched again. Took good water from the river as expected, enough to last to Rumpff Saddle next morning. Mark was feeling pretty crook, having had a bout of 'the runs' for the previous 24 hours, and was feeling very flat walking up the spur towards Mt Shillinglaw. It was a fairly hard climb anyway. Dennis was up front when he came upon another brownish coloured snake (I didn't see this one to identify).
We decided to have an early camp just before the 1073 knoll (GR465476) when we came across a nice spot by the turn eastwards to Mt Shillinglaw. It was early, around 3.00pm.
Only about 8-1/2 km walked today.
A thunderstorm during the night was a little too close. A Megamid with a single vertical metal pole, perched atop a high peak is not a safe place to be.
Mark is a lot better (we can tell by the speed he walks this morning), and we take off to Mt Shillinglaw, then by the 4WD track down to the Jamieson Road. The road was fast walking as expected, the off track section between the main roads was quite overgrown in places and slow progress, but generally an easy route to follow. Lunch was had at the intersection of Middle Ridge Road, and good water retrieved from the creek about 1/2 km north along Middle Ridge Road.
The weather had been deteriorating all morning, and by the time we got to rejoin the Jamieson Road it was blizzarding with powder snow. It got very cold along the road, and by the time we reached camp, we were all grateful to get set up quickly, retrieve our food drums, and get inside to keep warm.
We decided to bag Mt Skene and take in the views either in the morning if cleared, or on the return car trip, as it would have been fairly pointless in the current weather conditions. We ate as quick as we could, and slept. We were about 1 day ahead of schedule, but we knew that terrain is the days ahead of us would be slower, so were glad to have a buffer of time.
About 12km walked today.
The weather was still overcast and we had had quite a bit of high wind the previous night. We sorted out our next 8 days food, left some as well as excess gear, gas cylinders, and rubbish, and re-stashed our drums for later recovery.
Setting out via the Barkly River jeep Track we downed packs and retrieved good water from the track heading north west of the Rumpff Saddle, then continued along the Middle Ridge Road. The old forestry hut as described in JS's book are now dismantled and stacked around the site, which would be a good campsite. The walking was fast along the 4WD tracks, and we soon found ourselves at The Gorge (GR495607) for lunch. A 4WD (Landrover Defender with all the bells and whistles, GPS with laptop mapping etc) came past, stopping to chat before taking on the hill up towards Mt McKinty. We finished lunch and continued, finding him winching up the track just 80 metres or so along. We passed him on the deeply rutted and muddy section of track. "I would have been straight up that track with my mud tyres that are sitting at home in the garage" was stated when he caught up with us on Mt McKinty summit. After this we joked from time to time among ourselves, "Should have brought along my 'mud boots'", or "Wish I had those 'steep downhill on loose gravel boots'".
The walking was fine along the track, we continued on and bagged Mt Sunday (on a Sunday and all), then back to the helipad and down the old 4WD track to The Low Saddle. This old track was fairly overgrown, and we found perhaps the heaviest leech population of the walk on the 1km section from the hairpin bend north to the Mount Sunday Road. Thankfully there was no such problem at The Low Saddle. Good water was taken from the recommended spot north of the saddle, though the flow through the pool was slow, and would likely dry up in summer. The guidebook and a sign say 400m, but we paced it as 300m. Interestingly, leeches were prolific at the pool late afternoon (Mark and Dennis) but next morning (me, Gunther and Mark) there were none to be found.
Weather overcast, no precipitation. About 17-1/2 km walked today.
Headed east about 1km then north about another km to the saddle higher on a northern spur (GR510683). There are no markers to be found anywhere near this corner of the supposed foot track, and no obvious foot pad until around 50 metres in. Just go in on the top of the spur and you'll find it eventually. Shortly after starting you will come across the odd marker here and there. The 700 metre climb over the 8km or so to Mt McDonald is another good workout. We had pretty good weather for a change.
Decided to camp at the marked water source about 3km past Mt McDonald (GR551730), getting surprisingly good water from a large rutted section of the 4WD track heading south west from the saddle. Water was flowing freely into this, it was clear, and you just have to be careful not to disturb the water when dipping your water bottle.
About 11km walked today.
Today would be interesting, with many neat looking features along the way, and because (like Mt McDonald) much of this is above the tree line, the views are fine. We walked The Nobs, High Cone, and skirted Square Top, getting to the Square Top / Mt Clear saddle for lunch. We camped just at the base of Rocky Point next to the track (GR641787), arriving early around 3.00pm. Reasonable water was recovered from the creek down from Rat Camp / Chesters Yard, but we treated it due to the high number of signs of cattle (pats). We saw a black wild dog from the creek below, walking up towards Rat Camp /Chesters Yard. Next morning we discovered a great alternative camp at the top of the hill to the east of the track (GR642794).
About 11km walked today.
Starting early, we made good time along the 4WD track to King Billy No.2 and No.1, and then followed the foot track to the north east to Mt Magdala. Past Hells Window, we lunched at the saddle (nice campsite) and retrieved water from the excellent source in Hellfire Creek (well trodden foot track to the south west).
We bumped into some Timbertop kids on the track to Mt Magdala, the first we'd see over the next couple of days through to The Viking. Overall there were 33 groups of average 8 students out there, about 260 or so in total! They were out for 4 days, some of them carried 14kg odd packs, they did well and we noted there were no overweight kids among them.
After lunch we moved on to Big Hill then the incredible views from Mt Howitt. We could see all that lay ahead of us from here, Mt Hotham, Feathertop, and nice views of Buller and the Bogongs. The Crosscut Saw was next, 3km - 4km of undulating track over a saw tip like ridge. Although we had the company of different groups of kids, travelling both ways and totalling in the 150 number, it was a beaut walk.
We hoped to make it to camp at a saddle north east of Mt Speculation, but after a big day decided on Mt Buggery, where there was a nice site on the peak to pitch the Megamid. A note, the AAWT markers are supposed to have been removed from the Crosscut Saw to Barry Saddle wilderness area, though we did find them at times in places.
Perfect sunny day ! About 16km walked today.
Early in the morning we saw a female Timbertop student helicoptered out from Macalister Springs, we found out later with a badly sprained ankle.
A good descent through Horrible Gap, then of course a good ascent of Mt Speculation again brought great views. After a brief rest on top, we decided to take an alternative route from the saddle (GR686911) 1/2 km north to the 4WD track, where great water was obtained from the creek just west of the foot track junction. We walked the 4WD track, and rejoined the AAWT at Catherine Saddle. Passing over Mt Despair we got onto a fairly scrubby track. Once onto the start of The Razor the track was often hard to follow and indistinct. It now follows below The Razor rock line, rather than over the top as marked on the map. [Been that way for a few years - RNC.] We had lunch at the saddle just before the start of The Razor (GR720928).
The track climbs along with the Razor rock line, and leaves at the same knoll leading to Viking Saddle. We saw a couple of Timbertop groups returning to Speculation along the Razor section, and the last 3 groups just down from The Razor and at the knoll as we headed towards Viking Saddle. We got to Viking Saddle about 3.30pm, fairly tired so decided to camp there and tackle The Viking next day. A good decision, as it is slow going on the climb, through the cliffline, on top, and off the other side. Good water was located west of the saddle in the creek, about 400m away.
Again a beautiful sunny day to enjoy the views. About 13km walked today.
The weather deteriorated, it started to rain and the wind picked up markedly in the night, and we awoke to fairly misty and miserable looking day. Mind you I like walking on days like this, although we missed the views on The Viking. The Viking climb was steep but thankfully short.We didn't know it until on top, but we left the actual AAWT where it goes steeply through a rocky area. Instead we took a fairly well used foot track running south west for 50 metres or so along the cliff base and going up the left hand side of the scrubbier main gully. We suspect this is a Timbertop route. On top we came back towards the summit and found a marker on a tree at the top of the rock chute.
The summit was taken in cloud, and we quickly moved on to follow the spur downwards to the north east. This vaguely follows just below the rocky outcrops, and has markers from time to time. We walked from the summit with maybe 20 metre visibility, so walked a bearing just fine, picking up a fairly distinct foot pad which petered out as we progressed along the north east ridge. Towards the walk off the Viking spur keep high so not to miss the cairn at the turnoff. Keep close to the rocky ridgeline and you'll find markers. The walk off the ridge was steep as expected, and there are negligible markers. Take a bearing to the first knoll (GR769927) and walk it as closely as possible, avoid the rocky outcrops by walking down a gully left or right.
We lunched at the knoll and continued to Barry Saddle where we took water from the water tank to get us to the next (unmarked) tank at East Riley Road (GR843950). [These tanks have made an enormous difference to the notorious 'Dry Barrys' - RNC.]
Walking off the Viking we had probably the closest snake encounter. The party shall remain anonymous in case his spouse forbids any further forays. Walking left across the 45 degree slope, down maybe a few hundred metres from the top, he stepped below a large tree and felt something at his left knee. A large curled up and flattened out Tiger snake was on the high side of the hill, licking his knee with its tongue, just above the gaiter ! It was obviously cold, being flattened out to warm up quicker to get operational.
Well, I was about 20 metres up the slope, and as expected one would do, the victim of this vicious licking immediately leapt about 2 metres back, without looking at the steep difficult terrain mind you, and hopped his way down further yelling "my knee, my knee !" I though hell, he's twisted his knee or something, but then I heard snake mentioned too. I got down there quickly, and we sat him down. Calming down a little, he remarked he was absolutely positive he was not bitten. I trusted his judgment somewhat, but I had to be a little surer.
There were no bite marks or scratches present, no bleeding, no pain, etc. There were a couple of spots of moisture present where the snake touched him, and knowing that bites can produce a good amount of venom left on the skin, investigated closer. I tasted this, no taste present (venom is bitter), so assume moisture either from the snakes tongue, or from vegetation. Venom is harmless if ingested: it must enter the bloodstream via the Lymphatic system to do its stuff. Keep the venom out of the bloodstream and you have no problems.
Again we were reassured by the potential victim that a bite hadn't occurred, so we decided to carry on, although I was a little uncomfortable with this. As an ex snake catcher, I know that correct first aid (pressure, immobilization, evacuation and treatment as required, etc) will give 99.9% chance of recovery, and that there are documented case where victims have died when they thought there were no marks, bite, etc visible, and no treatment or help was sought. Once the venom reaches the bloodstream, there is little one can do without prompt hospitalisation and treatment with anti-venom. Tigers have long fangs, high venom yield, and highly coagulant venom, which thickens the blood to virtually gel. Well, the victim usually dies of heart failure well before this stage.
Lucky break, it would have been a difficult scenario for notification and evacuation, although I am sure if a bite had have occurred we would have treated and stabilised him, got a message out from The Viking range (Telstra digital), and SES could have assisted (carried) him to a suitable helicopter evac point.
Well, back to the walk. We entered the Barry Mountains proper, often referred to as the 'dry Barrys', where it is harder to find water. The good news is the addition of the 2 water tanks (mentioned previously) makes it less difficult. Another note about the Barrys: it is highly burnt from bushfires, almost all of it from just past Barry Saddle to Mt Hotham. Walking the Selwyn Track, we made camp at the East Riley Road water tank about 4.30pm. This was a great camp site too.
The weather fined up through the day. About 12km walked today.
Taking water for the days walk ahead, we followed the Selwyn Road. At the saddle just north (GR845956) we had a jumper stop, and when restarting walked just a few meters before a large Eastern Brown snake moved quickly off the track in front of us. On to the foot track junction to South Selwyn, we continued to South Selwyn summit, where we had a fairly early lunch (we were hungry). Nice lunch or camp site. The foot track is an old 4WD track, easy to follow, and Mt Selwyn was fairly easy on the more used 4WD track leading to the summit. The foot track off the summit of Mt Selwyn to meet the Great Dividing Range Track is rocky and steep, plus there will be trouble with regrowth of trees in the coming years.
Once the Great Dividing Range Track is reached it is good open walking, though the tedious ups and down are relentless, especially the hard climb up Twins Jeep Track to join the Mt Murray Track. On the walk down from the 1331 spot height to cross the Selwyn Road we came close to another Tiger snake, this one almost all black in colour.
We camped at the saddle on Mt Murray Track (GR994999), good water obtained by a steep walk down the creek to the south east, about 800 metres down to where several tributaries join to give good supply. Mark and I did this run, taking my empty pack, and brought back 14 litres to last us for camp and the walk next day.
Another sunny day. About 21km walked today.
A few hundred metres north up the Mt Murray Track we took the foot track to knolls 1597 and 1600 spot heights, then the 1616 spot height, on to the 1646 spot height, and then on to The Twins. Along the way we bumped into the only other long-range walker we met, a bloke walking Canberra to Walhalla solo, 30 days, was slightly ahead of target approaching the Mt Murray Track. Man, that would be tough, 30 days. Seems so rushed too. Based on what we had encountered, I couldn't help thinking he would likely have more delays on his last 1/3 of the remaining track. We gave him advice on Thomson River crossing and some other details, and we continued on our opposite ways.
Views all along here were excellent, Hotham just a valley away, and Feathertop looks so close now. Lunch was had on the leeward side of the main Twin 1703 metres height. From the eastern twin, the track descends sharply along a rocky foot track to a Twins 4WD track. 2-1/2km along we came to the Alpine Road (bitumen) that goes from Harrietville to Mt Hotham and beyond.
The water tank mentioned in JS's book is fairly dry, there is a wooden ladder leaning around the back to the top of this large concrete tank, and you could use it to then get down inside where there are pools among the rocky bottom. We didn't need any water for the remaining day.
The walk along the Alpine Road is tedious, and being a Sunday was fairly busy. We checked out Blowhard Hut along the way, and if it had a water tank, we would have stayed there. However, we needed water at camp that night and had decided Diamantina Hut was the go, arriving around 5.30pm. Water was mentioned in JS's book in Diamantina River headwaters, we walked up the road in the hope we could get this from the high side, but this was dry. Returning to the Razorback Track, we walked along a little then clearly saw the headwaters flowing well, taking water from where it comes from the ground spring below the track about 80 metres to the east (approx GR107078). After 14 nights in the Megamid, and because it was fairly late, we decided to throw down a groundsheet sleeping mats and bags on the floor of Diamantina Hut, which proved to be a good move. By 7.00pm it was practically whiteout, and the winds that night were very strong. We hoped we would have reasonably clear weather for the walk next day along the Razorback.
About 17km walked today.
Next day was clear and sunny again, though the wind was still very high from the east. We had decided to spread the walk to Harrietville over a day and a half, so not to rush things, and in case we needed a second chance at Feathertop if the weather was not suitable (we really wanted to do Feathertop in fine weather).
Started about 9.00am. The wind was gusting strongly, walking in Goretex jackets, it was hard not to get blown off track numerous times. We got to the Federation hut site for lunch, as we had approached Molly Hill site, we noticed a helicopter perched and then taking off from the knoll south of Federation Hut site. Perhaps the pilot needed to utilise the long drop.
After a long lunch, we hid our packs away in the scrub, and with water bottles and cameras took off for Mt Feathertop. Had an awesome view from here, even the snow covered NSW Main Range was clear as crystal. On the return walk we spotted from a distance a couple of people with what looked like a bloody big kite (it was of course a tent fly), and as we got closer saw that there were around 20 Shepparton High School students and teachers setting up camp. The wind had picked up a lot again.
We retrieved our packs and after some friendly banter with the teachers, decided to head down Bungalow Spur a way to make for some peace and quiet that night. What a good move. The wind that night was very high, and I can imagine the commotion that might have been occurring up there among the students. As it was we camped at the old Feathertop hut site (GR097165), which was just about the best site we'd had on the walk and so well protected, plus we were another 1-1/2 km closer to our finish. Very good water at the spring down the track leading south from this site, marked by a signboard. Go to the second (higher) flow where the pipes are laid.
About 13-1/2 km walked today.
The next morning we got going around 9.00am. Easy walking down this track, looks steeper on the map, but it does contour a lot. Some trees down across the track but easily negotiated compared to some of the previous 240km we'd covered. From the bend in the road as you enter Harrietville (GR057168), cross the bridge over the Ovens River East Branch which leads to a lane through to the Alpine Road. Then just a stones throw south you encounter the Harrietville General Store, where it is hard to resist some old favourites, fresh rolls, pies, other pastries, etc.
After a short break we walked south another 300 metres to Camping Road and Harrietville Caravan Park shortly down this road, right by the Ovens River West Branch. We chose a caravan with adjoining permanent annexure right by the running water, geared down, then hit the showers. How good this feels. After a siesta we organised gear, packs, and offloaded rubbish, then headed to the Snowline Hotel to check out tonight's fare, and after a quick beer, took a walk up the street. Dinner that night was unanimous: T-bones all round with various salads & vegies, etc. It is highly recommended, the food was great. Oddly, we all found it hard to sleep that night, even though we were in comfy beds. Perhaps the bloody river had something to do with it, maybe it was the excitement of going home to family.
About 9km walked today to the Caravan Park, arriving at 12.00 noon.
After a few hours of sleep, we had Bright Taxis pre-booked to pick us up at 5.00am, and take us to Bright for the 5.45am V-line bus to Wangaratta. From here we caught the Benalla train, which got in at 7.55am. A walk across town, via a bakery of course, and we retrieved the Magna, leaving town about 9.30am. We had to wait by Safeways (Woolworths in SA) for the liquor store to open as we wanted to get a couple of bottles of red, one for the car dealer who looked after our northern transport, and another for the Walhalla general Store folk who looked after the southern end. [A likely story! RNC.]
Leaving Benalla at 9.30am, we drove to Jamieson, said g'day to the Police to let them know we were fine and to check out the Licola Road conditions again. The Licola Road was still officially closed, apparently by council due to potential damage to cars and liability, though we were told 'no problems go ahead'. We needed to get our food drop stuff out anyway. Figuring we only had to retrieve the drop at Skene Road we again made a mistake in underestimating time to get across to Walhalla. The main problem this time was it was a lot slower drive in the Magna.
After retrieving our drums we got to Walhalla at around 3.30pm, still in time to have a great hamburger and get the other vehicle from the general store, but we really wanted to get past Melbourne and to Ballarat or so before stopping for the night. By the time we left Walhalla it was 4.30pm, but figured this wasn't as bad as we originally thought. After all Rhonda & Norm at the general store advised it was just a couple of hours drive to Melbourne. Turned out fine, arrived at a caravan park at Bacchus Marsh around 8.00pm, where we booked a cabin, parked one vehicle, and the 4 of us headed downtown to eat. Slept very soundly that night.
Left Bacchus Marsh 7.30am, arrived Adelaide 4.30pm.