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November 11 is not far away, and many Australians will pause at 11am for a minute to reflect on the end of the mass slaughter that was so much a part of “The Great War” that was to be “The War to End All Wars”.

Of course, WWII was just twenty years away and the sons of many AIF (Australian Imperial Force – the Australian Army) servicemen in turn (such as my uncle) served in the Second AIF when Australia was seriously threatened in the Pacific Campaign.

From the book on “Splendour Rock – A Bushwalkers War Memorial” by Michael Keats and I we know that 191 bushwalkers (young men and women) served in uniform with 13 bushwalkers now being remembered at Splendour Rock.

But perhaps another name should be considered as a victim of WWII although it was before 3 September 1939.

The guns fell silent at 11am on the 11 November 1918 but the war was not over until the Treaty of Versailles was signed in June 1919.  While this Treaty tried to avoid a future war by limiting the size of armed forces worldwide it failed.  Japan felt slighted from not being treated as an equal to the European nations and Adolf Hitler convinced the Germans that Germany had been stabbed in the back by the Allies (not correct).

In 1939 the drums of war were beating as Neville Chamberlain, Prime Minister of Great Britain tried to negotiate with Adolf Hitler to avoid war.  Recently, Jeff Howard a past President of CMW mentioned a club member who died while training as a RAAF Flying Officer.

Maxwell Leonard Hickson joined RAAF on 17 January 1938 so would seem to have seen troubled times ahead.  On 29 April 1939 he was one of two pilots, and two other aircrew killed near Riverstone when an Avro Anson bomber crashed.  From what Jeff Howard can see in early CMW records Max would have been close to a foundation member of CMW.

So, Maxwell Leonard Hickson was prepared to serve in WWII and thus there is a strong case that he should be remembered as one of the fallen bushwalkers Bushwalking NSW recognises at Splendour Rock.

Keith Maxwell.

Honorary Historian BNSW.

There is a new memorial on the official register of NSW war memorials.

How big should a war memorial be and how many fallen service personnel should it represent?  Say, over 100,000 from all wars Australians have been involved in as in the Australian War Memorial, Canberra.

Or should we just remember the part played by the fallen from NSW as in the Hyde Park War Memorial?

What about your local RSL or town.  Not as big and not as many fallen personnel.  But then just thirteen (13) fallen bushwalkers are remembered at an official war memorial of NSW called Splendour Rock.  The view is outstanding, but the plaque is barely bigger than a sheet of paper (it did have to be carried out there.)

Should the sacrifice of just one fallen soldier be remembered as on the Central Coast of NSW?  The same bushwalkers who though that Splendour Rock was a good idea to remember thirteen fallen bushwalkers from what is now Bushwalking NSW also though that one bushwalker deserved a special mention above Maitland Bay.

In 1932 the NSW Federation of Bushwalking Clubs (now BNSW) was setup as part of the campaign to save Blue Gum Forest in the Grose Valley from the axe.  In 1939 its Honorary Secretary was Charles D’Arcy Roberts of Coast and Mountain Walkers (CMW) who also was performing another role.  As a Solicitor he is remembered as a very effective Honorary Secretary for “Federation”.  Marie Byles who helped establish the Bush Club with Paddy Pallin was at the forefront of other bushwalkers to help protect Bouddi “Natural” (now National) Park with its glorious Maitland Bay.

Before enlisting in 1939 in the 2^nd AIF (the Australian Army of WWII) Charles D’Arcy Roberts was a “Trustee” for Bouddi Natural Park.  Unfortunately, his part of the 2^nd AIF was sent to Singapore where he survived the fighting but died in captivity as a Prisoner of War.

On 28th, 29^th and 30^th May in 1948 (just after the ANZAC Day Dedication of Splendour Rock) there was a “Federation” working bee at Bouddi Natural Park before a 2.30pm dedication of a small memorial at Bullimah Outlook to Charles D’Arcy Roberts.

This memorial is far easier to get to than Splendour Rock.  In a return trip of under two hours you need to start down the track to Maitland Bay from the Bouddi National Park Visitor Centre.  Eventually, there will be a turnoff to the right to “Bullimah Spur”.  Follow it right to a spectacular view southward towards Sydney and Broken Bay with Lion Island and the memorial to Charles D’Arcy Roberts.

Bullimah Outlook is now on the official register of NSW War Memorials.  You can see my nomination at –

https://www.warmemorialsregister.nsw.gov.au/memorials/bullimah-outlook

Keith Maxwell.

Honorary Historian BNSW.

See photos below with permission from www.twominutepostcards.com

Plaque to Charles D’Arcy Roberts at Bullimah Outlook

View south from Bullimah Outlook

No, its not a fallen bushwalker overlooked just after WWII but one of a remarkable group of Australians that should be better known.

All overnight bushwalkers should camp at least once on top of dry Mt Dingo (in the Wild Dogs of the Megalong Valley) near its southern end on 24 April for an early start.  From around 5.30am onwards they will hear the tramp of feet as bushwalkers gather for the 6am Dawn Service at Splendour Rock.

Splendour Rock was a special place even before it was dedicated as a bushwalkers war memorial on ANZAC Day 1948.  The plaque is on a small rock island in what surely must be a bushwalkers cathedral.  There is no stained-glass window but an amazing view of the southern Blue Mountains.  Mountains just disappear into the distance bounded in the east by King’s Tableland and to the west by Kanangra Walls and the High Gangerangs of Mt Cloudmaker.

In a moving but simple service thirteen (13) bushwalkers who died on active service in WWII are remembered.  With luck you will greeted by an amazing sunrise as the red dawn spreads out from King’s Tableland.

In February 2023 Michael Keats and I released a book “Splendour Rock – A Bushwalkers War Memorial” that documents these bushwalkers but also four other plaques at Splendour Rock available through www.bushexplorers.com.au

The History pages of Bushwalking NSW holds a page on Splendour Rock where you will find answers to obvious questions such as who were the fallen plus some details on the other four plaques in the immediate area.

But who were the bushwalkers who served and returned from WWII?  I am quietly pleased to have prepared a list for the book from available resources of 191 bushwalkers (including the thirteen fallen) since I could not find a list.

One name appeared frequently in a major resource as a POW correspondent – Bill Cawood.  Each month during WWII in the Sydney Bush Walker magazine there was a section “Letters from the Lads and Lasses” where young men and women in uniform from any bushwalking club were listed.

Now, I often read books about the edges of WWII such as a recent library loan of how the French hid the Mona Lisa and other art works from the Nazis who were known art thieves.  Or a book about the 2/5 AGH – “Proudly We Served”.  An essential part of an army must a hospital based close to the front line such as an Australian General Hospital – AGH.

One group of remarkable unarmed Australian servicemen accepted becoming POWs.  A desperate attempt to slow the German Army in Greece and Crete led to evacuation under fire via warship.  The female nursing staff of the 2/5 AGH were evacuated while a core of doctors and support staff stayed behind to care for injured Australian servicemen.  Their story is one of survival as they moved from prison camp to prison camp as they continued to care for those around them with limited bandages etc.  Later, it was desperate times as all sorts of starving people were on the move in various directions as armies closed in on a war-torn Germany during winter of 1945.  During this time the 2/5 AGH continued to assist those around them.

Previously I have never seen a bushwalker mentioned by name in a book unrelated to bushwalking but one man of this remarkable group of medical staff, is mentioned by name – Bill Cawood.  Thus, Sydney Bush Walkers should be very proud of an Australian who served in WWII with great distinction as an unarmed serviceman.

Hence when you reflect at Splendour Rock on the thirteen bushwalkers who did not return from WWII also remember an unarmed bushwalker who showed great care for his mates and others around him – Bill Cawood.

Keith Maxwell.

The Splendour Rock plaque from 1948.

Where were you on November 11, 2019?

On November 10 a good bushwalking friend, Matthew Stephenson and I had camped on Mt Dingo for November 11.  We were at Splendour Rock to remember the end of World War One 100 years ago.

On November 11, 1918, the guns of World War I fell silent.  Each year since then Australia falls silent for one minute at 11am (as the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month).  The mass slaughter was over, but the war was not over until the Treaty of Versailles was signed on 28 June 1919.  Medals from World War I often call it “The Great War 1914 – 1919”.  It had been such a vast war that it was thought this was “the war to end wars”.

The First AIF (Australian Imperial Force) army under General Sir John Monash played an important role in pushing the German army back to the border of Germany.  In the ‘glorious 100 days’ of combat Monash and the allies used the “all arms combat” they had developed where artillery, infantry, tanks, and planes all worked together.  The way was open to Berlin, but the allies went no further.  The German people were close to a (possible communist) revolution from a food blockage by the Royal Navy.  The German Navy had tried to stop convoys getting to Britain with submarine warfare, but the Royal Navy was successful in its similar blockade.  The Australian Light Horse had also played a major role in the defeat of the Ottoman (Turk) empire in 1918.  The original ANZAC Day Gallipoli campaign of 1915 was an attempt to defeat the Turks through the Dardanelles.

Unfortunately, there were those like Adolf Hitler who were convinced that Germany had not truly been defeated and hence wanted another go.  Japan had been an ally in WWI but felt slighted by the terms of The Treaty of Versailles.

War came close to Australia in New Guinea during WWII.  Darwin, Broome, and many other northern Australian towns were bombed.  Around 191 bushwalkers (young men and women) from clubs of Bushwalking NSW (BNSW) joined the fight.  Seven died in the Pacific Campaign while six others died in the European theatre.

Post WWII bushwalkers of BNSW were hurting.  They were keen not to forget these thirteen bushwalkers as their numbers had included some outstanding bushwalkers.

Several ideas were thrown around including a memorial park on Narrow Neck or renaming a peak towards Kanangra Walls.  Now, Splendour Rock had always been a special location.  It is even featured in ‘An Introduction to Bush Walking’ from 1939.

During February of 1948 four bushwalkers installed the memorial plaque at Splendour Rock.  In the book by Michael Keats and I (Splendour Rock – A Bushwalkers War Memorial) you can see the breakdown of which items each bushwalker carried as described from Minutes of BNSW.

We are not sure of how many bushwalkers were present at the dedication of Splendour Rock on ANZAC Day 1948.  It was led by Paddy Pallin (an RAF veteran from WWI) and the BNSW President, Stan Cottier.  It is said a list was passed around, but I have never seen it.  One report says 140 bushwalkers while another suggests 80 bushwalkers were present.  Equally, I have not seen a list of the bushwalkers who served despite having a Bushwalkers Services Committee to support bushwalkers on service.  The list of 191 bushwalkers in our book is based on a collation of data from available sources.

Australia changed considerably as it fought for its survival.  It changed from an agricultural society to an industrial society.  In WWI only Australia and India were volunteer armies.  Very few women served, mainly as nurses.  In WWII women donned overalls to work in factories or served in important support roles within many auxiliary services.  Male farm labour was replaced by the Australian Women’s Land Army (AWLA).  While two Conscription referendums had been defeated in WWI under the (WWII) Manpower Regulations the entire Australian workforce was either directed into armed services or kept at home (like my father) for essential services to make munitions or war materials.  Rationing was tight.  At the end of WWII Australia had the fourth largest air force in the world.  So many of the very best young bushwalkers were serving that there was concern about the future of bushwalking.

Only since 1992 has there been an annual ANZAC Day Dawn Service at Splendour Rock.  Australia’s most remote war memorial requires a serious bushwalk to get there so for many past mid-week ANZAC Days there was no service.  Special anniversaries only had been remembered.

An overnight camp on Mt Dingo then the Dawn Service on ANZAC Day is a never-to-be forgotten experience especially the sunrise over King’s Tableland.  All bushwalkers should go there at least once.  Splendour Rock has drawn visitors from all over the world.

Matthew and I were on our own on November 11, 2019, but we did not stay until 11am.  The bushfires of the ‘Black Summer’ were already becoming a menace.  Walking in the Wild Dogs during midday was out of the question as it was going to be a fiercely hot day.  We passed through the upper gate in the Megalong Valley just as an NP&WS Ranger was posting a sign – PARK CLOSED.

Keith Maxwell.

The Splendour Rock plaque from 1948.

ANZAC Day is not far away so your mind may be turning to the special memorial at Splendour Rock that remembers 13 bushwalkers (from bushwalking clubs of Bushwalking NSW) who did not return from World War II.  This memorial in the Megalong Valley of the Blue Mountains must be Australia’s most remote war memorial.

You may or may not be aware of some other memorial plaques at this site.  A new book by Keith Maxwell and Michael Keats OAM should be on your bookshelf.  It is the definitive work that is bound to become a valuable reference on Splendour Rock with so much information.  It answers so many questions.  For example,

# Who found Splendour Rock plus when was the plaque installed and by whom?

# When was the memorial put on the official NSW register of war memorials and Australian War Memorial?

# Who are the bushwalkers remembered and what did they look like plus who were the bushwalkers who served and returned from WWII?

# How did the bushwalkers at home support their friends in uniform?

# How have these bushwalkers been remembered at ANZAC Day Dawn Services starting in 1948?

# What are the other memorial plaques including on the Central Coast and in a North Sydney church?  What is their story?

# How have fallen NZ (of ANZAC – New Zealand) trampers been remembered?

# What is the bushwalking club founded by a walk to Splendour Rock?

With 360 glossy pages it is a great read packed full of so much information plus pictures and early maps.  A must for every bushwalker’s bookshelf.

Splendour Rock – A Bushwalkers War Memorial by Keith Maxwell and Michael Keats OAM is available at bookshops where you find other great bushwalking books or from the website – bushexplorers.com.au (postage free at $66)

Keith Maxwell.

The Splendour Rock Choir from the Illawarra Grammar School.

Did you know that there are four other memorials in the immediate area of the plaque at Splendour Rock in the Wild Dog Mountains.  A detailed, fully researched book by Michael Keats and Keith Maxwell is now with the printer.  For any bushwalker with even a passing interest in Splendour Rock this will become a go to reference.

Splendour Rock honours thirteen (13) bushwalkers from clubs who died on active service during WWII. While Splendour Rock has been described as ‘God’s Balcony’ with its views of the Southern Blue Mountains it was not the first choice of a site for a memorial.

The book answers so many questions such as, who were the thirteen (13) young men, how did they die and what did they contribute to bushwalking?  How have they since been remembered?  Who cast the Splendour Rock plaque and when / how was it installed and then dedicated?  Who were the bushwalkers who served and returned?  How were they supplied comforts from home?  What is the story behind the other four memorials.

A great read and a great reference not to be missed.  Watch out for a book launch early in 2023.

Keith Maxwell.

BNSW Honorary Historian.

ANZAC Day is not far off.  Many bushwalkers will be heading to Splendour Rock in the Wild Dog Mountains of the Megalong Valley.  They will be there to honour thirteen (13) bushwalkers remembered by a simple but moving Dawn Service at this memorial plaque.  There has been an annual Dawn Service since at least from 1992 and perhaps even 1990 (records are incomplete).  Prior to that time Dawn Services were infrequent but usually at significant anniversaries such as 10, 25 and 50 years since its dedication in 1948 by the NSW Federation of Bushwalking Clubs (now Bushwalking NSW)..

The Bushwalking NSW website has a file that describes the fallen we remember at Splendour Rock prepared by Michael Keats OAM, Belinda Keir and Keith Maxwell.  See – https://www.bushwalkingnsw.org.au/history/

There is something special about Splendour Rock that has been hidden plain sight.  Its not just the location which is very special with its stunning view of the southern Blue Mountains.  It tells the story of a changing Australia in World War II.

In WWI Australia sent a new army, the AIF (Australian Imperial Force) to the other side of the world for an amphibious landing on ANZAC Day 1915 at Gallipoli.

Australia industrialised as war came very close in WWII and the casualties tell an interesting story.  Among the bushwalkers remembered a minority were in the AIF but all four (4) died in the fall of Singapore in 1942 or later as POW of the Japanese.

Bruce Elder (pictured) of Coast & Mountain Walkers died on HMAS Sydney when it was lost off the Western Australian coast in November 1941.

James McCormack of YMCA Ramblers although in RAAF died on HMAS Canberra when it was lost in the Battle of Savo Island in the Pacific Ocean.  Again, not Europe.

Norman Saill of Sydney Bush Walkers and RAAF died in the New Guinea campaign.  The remaining six (6) bushwalkers (of the 13) were all in RAAF and died while based in the UK.

So, hiding in plain sight was the fact that at Splendour Rock more airmen (8) are remembered than soldiers (4) who were more likely to have died close to Australia and not in some foreign (European) field.

Splendour Rock Memorial 1948

Elder Bruce photo

Keith Maxwell.